Ahhh. The air this morning is crisp and smells of musky, wet woods. Steam tendrils rise from the creek. Star is delighted as she sniffs the mysterious odors that are apparent only to dog, not human olfactory senses. Step, step, pause, sniff. Step, step, pause, sniff. I am rue to hurry her along on our morning walk since at her age, this is one of the remaining joys of life. I wonder what critters passed this way in the night and left their scents behind.

We crossed into British Columbia yesterday leaving Yukon Territory behind. On our various trips to Northern Canada, we have traveled nearly every kilometer of the numbered highways in the Yukon Territory. Despite the vast area of the Yukon (approx 180,000 square miles), there are not many roads since it is so sparsely populated (Yukon population is about 40,000). The highways cross these wild lands from the Alaska border on the west to above the Arctic Circle on the north. And to be clear, these are not the multi-lane highways we are accustomed to in the US. The numbered highways in the Yukon range from paved two-lane highways like Highway 2, the Alaska Highway, to rough dirt and gravel roads where two vehicles are hard-pressed to pass each other (Highway 4, the Campbell Highway or Highway 9, The Top of the World Highway.

This is not a place for the faint of heart. There are long stretches where there are no services. Preparedness and planning are key. Fuel…✔️ Food…✔️ Drinkable water…✔️ Bear spray…✔️ Paper maps…✔️.

The rewards are phenomenal beauty, glimpses of wild creatures, and the stripping away of the noise of modern life.

We love the remote wildness of this region. Interestingly we have traveled the roads in a variety of ways. My first trip up here was in the 1980’s when I ran with a relay team from Skagway Alaska to Whitehorse, Yukon Territory. That race went for 120 miles along the route of the Yukon Goldrush (Highway 2). I ran the final 12 miles into Whitehorse. A long time ago! I saw Northern Lights and heard wolves howling for the first time. Exciting!

The next trip was in 2019 when Jim and I traveled with a cycling tour from Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories on the Arctic Ocean through the Yukon and on down to the US. The most amazing portion of this trip was the Dempster Highway, another dirt road that is the only land route up to the Arctic Ocean in Canada.

Finally, this is our second trip driving our Truck and taking turns cycling the other roads up here that we missed before.

Running, cycling, driving…we have experienced this region in many ways. We’ve encountered bears, moose, eagles, porcupines and countless little creatures. We have gone for long stretches without seeing another vehicle. Our campsites have ranged from pull-offs by the side of the road to spectacular spots by one of the many lakes and rivers.

Farewell to the Yukon. Thanks for listening to me wax on about this amazing place. British Columbia is somewhat more civilized and also truly beautiful. We are on the Cassiar Highway and look forward to some lovely cycling. See you down the road 👋