What does it take to feel happy? Content? Safe and secure? These are questions that I have been pondering lately. (You probably notice that I ponder a great deal on this trip. Hours on the bike and waiting for ferries etc provide ample opportunities for introspection 😇).

Anyway, the circumstances of traveling in a remote region without the distractions of everyday existence; the lack of control over crucial factors like road quality and weather; and the inability to replace lost and broken possessions have brought these questions to mind. Can I be ok if I am soaking wet and cold? What if I have to get in the truck more often than I want because the road is too difficult? Can I live without my camera? My phone?

Let’s address these issues individually: Weather. Talk about surrendering control! I knew that this trip was likely to include some extreme weather but everyone agrees that we have had many extremes. There was dry, dusty, windy weather with big headwinds in the Pampas of Argentina. Chile has been often very wet and cold. And now we have been stuck in the village of Villa O’Higgins for 3 days because the ferry that we must take to move forward has been canceled for days due to high winds and unsafe conditions to cross. Sadly this means that we miss our rest days in El Chalten, a famous destination near one of Patagonia’s national parks. Hopefully the ferries will run tomorrow or we will have a hard time reaching our final destination, Ushuaia in time for flights home.

Everyone works hard at making the best of things. We all have bought more rain gear and cold weather gear along the way. Jokes abound. And Villa O’Higgins has been a quirky treat. It sits at the end of the Carretera Austral, the road we have ridden since Puerto Montt in the Lake District. It is a backpacker destination in the high season ( a month or two from now). At first glance it’s a mix of newer buildings and ramshackle ones with a rough road down the middle. The setting is spectacular and there are surprisingly good restaurants and breweries to feed us all. Most of the group is staying in hostels but I don’t do well in a dorm so got myself a lovely room across the street. So can you detach from the weather and delays? Actually, yes.

Due to my balance issues, I have needed to take the bus to lunch on the big gravel days because I have to ride quite slowly. At first, I felt sorry for myself about my limitations. But the staff have been very kind to me and it has meant that I often get to ride by myself at whatever pace I want. I love the solitude and freedom of riding on my own and finally realize that I am very grateful to be able to ride these roads at all. Can I be happy when I have to take a lift? Why yes, I am!

Finally, water got into my phone again but this time it died altogether 😪. OMG, it was so difficult to be without a phone. Talk about a lesson in detachment. I rely on my phone for so many things: the time (no watch), alarm, light in the middle of the night, my route navigation, audible books, camera, blog writing, notes to myself, communications with the other riders, flight updates, emails, and most of all keeping in touch with Jim at home. What to do!!! Yikes!!

After much handwringing I began to piece together these functions– borrow a watch, borrow a phone for a bit, find a real book in English, use a flashlight. This village is very small and I assumed that there was no way to buy a phone or obtain repairs. But then Veronica, the woman at my hotel said that she thought a phone could be purchased at the Supermercado ( grocery store). So she locked up her business and walked me to two stores where we obtained a Samsung galaxy phone and Sim card from behind the counter!! What a miracle! I had to download apps and information piecemeal onto the phone but now I am back in business. Did I practice detachment from needing a phone? Not very well I will admit. But thanks to the kindness of a stranger, I am writing and taking photos once again.

Cross your fingers for me that our ferries run tomorrow and the journey will continue. Ciao for now!