Musings along the Baltics

Today’s post is a hodgepodge…a bit of travelogue, a tattling on myself, thoughts on the nature of touring on a bike, and notes on signage.

We left Tallinn on Saturday heading south through Estonia and into Latvia where we are savoring a rest day in Riga, the capital on the Bay of Riga on the Baltic Sea.  Estonia continued to be beautiful with groomed Scotch pine forests, sandy beaches along the Baltic coast, immaculate farms and alas headwinds and periods of rain.

Barn in estonia
Stone barn with earth-covered ramp to the hayloft

We did see some sun, somewhat warmer temperatures and many stork nests.  Storks in nest

 

I have found the signage to be fun and helpful.  Without a knowledge of the local language, you can usually figure out what they are telling you.  Some signs are particularly entertaining.

 

The rides have been fairly tough.  Although the topography remains quite flat, the winds shifted to SW and have remained in our faces.  When I asked Gergo our Hungarian guide if we would have headwinds for the entire trip, he informed me that since Europe is a small continent, they had to do something to make the trip seem longer!  We have also encountered nasty gravel for many kilometers at a time with memorable washboard (oh my aching neck  😦  ).  Fortunately we have also had some wonderful back highways with good surfaces, beautiful scenery and little traffic to remind us of “why do we like doing this anyway?”.  I have decided that touring by bike is like life in general:  you do your best to be prepared for each day and then you just roll with the punches.  About the time you think the rain will never end, or the wind lighten up, the sun starts to shine and a pastry shop appears!

George and pastry
George, our fellow rider from Switzerland about to enjoy another pastry

 

As for our longest and toughest day, I have to confess that it was due in part to a bonehead move on my part.  Jim and I were cycling down a particularly nice road along the sea when it started to rain fairly hard.  We stopped at a covered bus stop to put on more rain gear (we are getting very good at that).  We headed out again, stopped for coffee and pastries, and once again started cycling.  “Hmm” I thought, “Something doesn’t seem right.  I’m not looking through raindrops on my glasses”.  Nope, no glasses on my face.  Back we go to the coffee stop…no glasses.  You guessed it, I left them at the bus shelter 11km back.  Fortunately they were still there but we added 22kim (23 for Jim who actually rode faster and retrieved them) along with one of our guides.  It made for a 140km day (roughly 85 miles) including many kilometers of rain and rough gravel.  I owe Jim bigtime for that very special move!!

We crossed into Latvia and noticed right away that it is less affluent than Estonia.  Riga, however, has a beautiful old town.

entering latia
Entering Latvia.  Easy borders now that we are in the Eurozone

 

We have enjoyed a couple of excellent meals, repacked once again, and took in the sights today.  Tomorrow he hit the road again and enter Lithuania.  Thank you all for joining us on our travels.  We really appreciate your comments although generally I can’t respond due to time or wifi constraints.  But we love knowing you are there.

Until next time…

13 thoughts on “Musings along the Baltics

  1. Love, love, love that you are sharing your travels with us! And I like what you said about it being like life, you really do just have to go with it. Sounds like you are eating some delicious pastries! A “Way to go” for Jim for getting your glasses! I hope your neck is okay.

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  2. Barb,
    I feel like I can live vicariously through your trip. I don’t think I’ll ever be lucky enough to do something like that and so to follow you on your journey is so fulfilling for me. Thank you for all the fun stories and the humble perspectives.
    Love you so much!
    Jan

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  3. Thanks, so much, for sharing the high and low points along the way! We love hearing all of the details. So glad you were reunited with your bikes eventually. Love, Rosanne and Van

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  4. Dear Barb and Jim,

    Once again I LOVE TRAVELING WITH YOU through Europe! I’m tracking your progress on Google Earth, too. Sending you love and support!

    Joan

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  5. Hi Joan, so cool that you are following the path on Google Earth. Another option is Strava. I am trying to upload my garmin onto Strava and then the rides are mapped on a Google map along with the pertinent stats (route, speed, elevation gain etc). You simply go to strava.com, sign in and then search for me by email barbsmit@hotmail.com. you might find it funny.
    So pleased to hear from you. Have a great summer, Barb

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  6. Hopefully that’s the end of extra kms… However you stayed in the same country the whole time which is a definitely improvement on last year!! Fingers crossed the weather improves for you and enjoy! See you soon x

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  7. You guys must be getting really tough. We had trouble with the headwinds in Holland, so appreciate how difficult flat can be. Glad to see you are weathering it with a good attitude.

    Steve just got back from a bike ride in the area, and I did a ride with the wheelmen this morning with lots of hills, only 40 miles, but I was glad to see the car at the end.

    Did your bikes ever catch up with you? Can’t even imagine how frustrating that saga must have been, and glad you sere able to get bikes to continue on.

    Our summer and spring have been largely looking at real estate for a farm for Richard, and we are currently on our fourth property where we have made an offer, and it looks like this one will work out. Will know more soon.

    Love getting your blog.

    Stay safe.

    Mary

    >

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    1. If this farm doesn’t work out, check the ten acrea on Bannock Road off of Brooks Road in the West Plains area. My friends are moving and need to sell.

      Good luck.
      Marlene

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  8. Great to hear from you again. Dad especially liked seeing the barn. I read your blog to him today, Wednesday, showed him your pictures and where you are on your map. He said you sure have along ways to go. He is worried about Jim’s knee? with all that “extra”riding.
    Dad was out swathing grass for bailing today.
    We look forward to hearing about the next adventure.

    Ride safe,
    Tom and Marlene

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