On the Danube Cycleway

Jim watermelon ice creamThe Danube Cycleway is an amazing cycling trail that goes from the source of the Danube (Donau) River in the Black Forest of Germany Danube near source to Budapest in Hungary, 1269 km.  It passes through Germany, Austria, a bit of Slovakia, and into Hungary following the Danube river.  It is made up of paved and graveled dedicated bike trail, small country lanes, and city streets.  Unlike the “rails to trails” cycleways we are used to in the States, it has some significant ups and downs although no long passes like in the mountains.

We traveled from Freiburg to Donaueschingen via a very steep climb on a small country road over Thunder Pass. top of Thunder Pass  I would have been singing Edelweiss if I had any extra breath!!  I did discover that when I hit 14-15% grade my legs are simply not strong enough to keep the recumbent moving (ie I had to walk some stretches of the hill!!).  Once I could breath again, it was very lovely.

The next day we headed off on the trail.  It is a challenge to follow the signs Donau sign  and the many twists and turns but it is really beautiful. Donau trail   Not only has the scenery been amazing along the trail but we have met many interesting cyclists out for a couple days or many months traveling by bike.  We met families with young children, all equipped with paniers carrying their own camping gear.  The nationalities, goals, equipment and speed of the riders have varied greatly but the common ground is traveling by bike.  It has been great fun to meet them and hear about their adventures.

Our own group is also a very international group.  We have cyclists from the US, Canada, the UK, Ireland, the Netherlands, South Africa, New Zealand, Israel, and Australia in our group.  Our guides are from Slovakia, Hungary and Turkey.  Of the 25 or so cyclists, the age range is from about 19 to 74 and professions (or prior professions) include student, financial managers, arbitrator, lawyers, doctors, psychologist, airline attendant, NGO worker, and teachers.  On balance, the group has been great–friendly, helpful, and awesome cyclists.  Hopefully I will get a chance to introduce you more to some of my fellow riders as we go along.

The weather has been seeringly hot (record breaking temps!) just like at home.  Finally today we had a break from the heat.  It has been terribly hard to keep hydrated.  I will admit that by the end of day I question our sanity.  Hopefully things will continue to be cooler without going too far in the other direction.

Today we are in Ulm for a rest day.  There is an amazing cathedral

carving of peasant with cathedral on his back--surprisingly honest!
carving of peasant with cathedral on his back–surprisingly honest!

here although the tower  (highest in Europe) is closed to climbing due to restoration work.  My long time friend Bruce G was stationed here back in the 1970s.  Bruce, thought of you lots today as we walked around your old stomping grounds.  Munster cathedral angel

It’s back on the bike tomorrow.  Sweet dreams.

Quick update next day: Rode the trail again today.  Lovely ride through the woods a good share of the day.  The one bummer was that I stepped onto the trail near our lunch spot and was promptly hit by a bicycle going full tilt!!  Fortunately no major damage done but I certainly don’t bounce as well as I used to.  Guess I need to look both ways before stepping!!!!!  See you all soon.  Happy summer!

8 thoughts on “On the Danube Cycleway

  1. Hi Barb and Jim – got your wonderful mail from my home state. You must be very near Ingolstadt, home of the Audi, my hometown. We were there in June.
    I am sorry to hear about your accident, Barb, hope you got away without too much pain and can continue your trip. Jim looks pretty “rugged”, a lot of sun I guess. Glad that the worst heat is over, my friends have been complaining about it.
    Much love and happy travels from Jutta

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  2. Probably climbing the Munster Cathedral in Ulm with its 768 steps wasn’t a good suggestion for a break during a long bike trip. Better to just get a brat from one of the many corner street vendors – I do miss the incredible bread & brats. Enjoyed seeing a picture of the German countryside – reminded me of how beautiful the rolling country side is without any fences. You’ll soon be entering territory totally verboten to me when I was there in the early ’70’s.
    Really enjoying your posts!

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  3. I love reading your blog! It looks beautiful and sounds as though you are having an amazing adventure. Sorry about the accident, a good thing there is no real damage, but I am sure it hurt! Keep the stories flowing x

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  4. Hi Barb and Jim,

    Love your blog. This last one was SO attractive as a combination of text and pic’s!

    Bavaria really is scenic. I remember being surprised the first time I was there – going to meet Jutta in 1959 – and looking out the train window at the rolling fields with several villages visible at one time – each with a red onion dome on its church. Of course, your being down in the Danube valley will mean you wont have such high lookouts. If you get a chance to travel 50 k’s north or south by car, do take it just for the vistas.

    Ingolstadt will be coming up soon. We spent a week there last month, with Jutta and her friend revisiting their childhood experiences. It was very moving for me as well.

    When you “hit” (as they say in America) Weltanburg with its monastery, do try to find a bottle- or a half liter – of Weltanburger Kloster Barock Dunkel – world’s oldest dark beer! Brewed at the monastery there. A friend found it for me saying it was special, and it was. http://www.weltenburger.de/en/beer-treat/weltenburg-beers/barock-dunkel/

    By the way, Jutta gets your blog, and I signed up for it, but do not receive it. Is there a way for me to register again?

    With best wishes.

    Dwight

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  5. So glad you’re meeting other cyclists, I’m sure everyone has a different story as to why they’re doing it. Barb, I am happy to hear you didn’t hurt when you got hit by the bike. You’re right, we don’t bounce as well as we used to! Love your photos.

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  6. Barb
    Just catching up on your blog. Your trip sounds amazing, full of great scenery, food, and clearly some adventures. Can’t wait to see all your photos when you get home. Keep on pedaling!
    Jane

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